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Day 7

Sa Pa village to Yên Bình

My ride on day 7 was incredible. As soon as I got out of the high altitude, the fog and rain disappeared, leaving me with the perfect riding conditions. The roads were dry, interrupted by small gravel sections due to construction work here and there, but the well balanced CBX managed to fly over the bumps completely effortless. Every village I passed was covered in numerous Vietnamese flags and it felt like riding through a sea of waving red canvas. There were countless people on the streets, chatting, sitting together and just celebrating the new year. Most of the shops along the route were closed and I was not able to find a lunch spot that day. I didn’t mind, I lived off the snacks and water I was carrying in my backpack. The hours just rushed by and I couldn’t get enough of the views of that day: Mountains and hills, freshly set rice fields and stunning landscapes in a million shades of green. I was buzzing when I arrived at the homestay, this ride could’ve gone on forever, a 10/10! Vu Linh Palm House Homestay is lovely, the bungalows aligned perfectly with views over the close rice fields and forest, the cute dogs are greeting everyone with big enthusiasm. Everything from the location to the food is made with a lot of love, an absolute hidden gem. After dinner we again were gathering around the fire, exchanging stories, having beer and just enjoying the peaceful sounds of the forests.

Vu Linh Palm House Homestay

Day 8

Yên Bình to Ba Bể Lake

Again I set off in rain and fog, trying to reach the first location of day 8: Đường hầm Pháp. The roads were covered in clay and pretty slippery in some sections due to the rainfall in the past days. I took it slow with the CBX, not keen to dropping it in the muddy sections while riding on my own. It felt way too early to get out of my comfort zone that morning, but I had no other choice. Following the only available road, this was my only option. I already was exhausted, when circumstances got even worse and more challenging. The “main road” proceeded to get even worse, so I stopped in a tiny village in the middle of nowhere to hopefully top up fuel, snacks and water. I found a small shop providing all three things, and while the lovely shop owner proceeded to fill up my tank with petrol from a handpump, an uncle passed by, acting impressed over the 500cc bike I was riding. Using hands and feet, he asked if he could sit on it, which I didn’t mind at first. But when he took the attached key, trying to start the bike, I quickly told him off. I believe, he might have been a little high on rice wine, which is not an uncommon thing during Tết. I was thankful for the shop owner to support my bid, shouting a few Vietnamese words, which got him off the bike quickly. Just when I thought I had the worst road conditions behind me, it got even worse. The main road turned out to be off tarmac, covered in slippery clay with narrow slopes with up to 10% gradient. Still being on my own, I took it very slow, carefully trying to slide the heavy bike down the hills. When I made it to the tarmac again, I literally got off the bike and kissed the ground. My exhaustion, mentally and physically had reached an unknown peak. Luckily the last 40 kilometers of the day were tarmac and I made it to the homestay, melting off the bike and just laid down for a while. Gladly, the boys who just arrived a little earlier, took over the bike and parked it for me. I felt broken and unbelievably tired, but proud at the same time, for pushing through and not dropping the bike once. It took me some hours, a hot shower and a short nap to feel partially human again. “From now on”, I told myself, “everything upcoming will just feel like peanuts”. The home-cooked dinner of the homestay was amazing, the rice wine did its job and I slept like a baby that night.

Hoanh Tu Homestay

Day 9

Ba Bể Lake to Mèo Vạc

Still tired from the day before, I set off to follow the support car and guide Tài. His bike had a failing rear suspension, so he had to take it slow and couldn’t follow the main group off-road. Still, I managed to get lost and took a wrong turn (thanks Google Maps!) and proceeded to ride the CBX up a steep hill with big boulders and gravel. I only realized when Tài called me and in the exact same moment, Chí and the Aussies catched up, going up the same way. I decided to turn around out of safety reasons, went down the hill again and proceeded to follow the support car, until we reached the hotel. Fun times! Moral of the story: Never fully trust Google Maps in Vietnam 😉

Hotel Hoa Cuong

Day 10

Mèo Vạc to Bảo Lạc

First stop on the route today was the Mã Pí Lèng Pass with an incredible view over the Hạnh Phúc river and the mountains. Although it is an amazing location, it was too busy and too full of tourists for my taste. After having a short break and taking a few pictures, we were ready to set off again. I exchanged the CBX for the KLX, cause our next stop would be the Bamboo Ferry Raft to set over the river. The KLX felt like a bicycle after riding the CBX for the last days and it took me a minute to adjust to it, while riding narrow, windy roads. I had taken the Bamboo Ferry on my last Vietnam trip and knew the upcoming conditions, so I was happy to have a light bike to ride the single track leading down to the raft. After successfully getting to the other side of the river, Chí offered me the CBX again and we catched up at a beautiful photo spot, where we managed to snap an amazing group shot. The last distance to the hotel turned out to be a perfect mix of tarmac roads and gravel sections, interrupted by slalom rides around potholes. I had a blast and was completely covered in dust when I arrived at the accommodation. What a great riding day!

PaoLo Hotel

Day 11

Bảo Lạc to Cao Bằng

When we set off, it was rainy and foggy again, so I put on my áo mưa (raincoat) to be prepared for the upcoming ride to a spectacular cave called Khu di tích lịch sử Thành lập Chi Bộ Đảng đầu tiên của Huyện Bảo Lạc. The backroad to get there was quite slippery, but worth the hassle. I catched up with the boys and after a short break I set off with guide Tài to the next location: God’s Eye Mountain. Tài’s bike still was having issues with the rear suspension, making it quite funny to watch him bounce around the corners. We got to the meeting point earlier than the rest of the group and I must admit is got quite chilly while waiting for them. But again, it was worth the wait and we rode onto the plain of God’s Eye Mountain together. As the track opened up, we found ourselves on the most awesome playground for Enduro bikes: the terrain was a mix of grass, mud, sand, dust and different tracks, that were so much fun! Luckily it was dry and we had the best time riding through the location. One of my absolute favorite places so far! On the way to the next homestay, we stopped at the Bản Giốc Waterfalls. Our accommodation for the night was Yen Nhi Homestay, located and partly engraved in a mountain, absolutely stunning! Not to mention the home-cooked meals, which again, were super tasty. A few beers later and after using up all available wood for the firepit, we happily snuggled into our beds and fell into a deep sleep.

Yen Nhi Homestay

Day 12

Cao Bằng to Bắc Sơn

We started day 12 with a visit of a nearby limestone cave. Tài was still accompanying me, when we left the homestay later and I was given a CRF that day, due to worn out clutch plates on the CBX (wasn’t me). Guide Que had proceeded to fix them in the parking lot the day before, but Chí wanted to make sure they were running ok. First stop for us that day was Thẩm Khách Archaeological Site. This cave is around 2 kilometers long and once was used as a military base and storage. You are allowed to ride through it and I must admit it was a little spooky. Remember to have a working light on your bike, cause this site has none and it is completely dark. What an epic experience! On our way to the homestay, the battery of my bike gave up and Tài had to push me a few times to start the bike up. Let’s say, we had a lot of fun. Google was at it again on our last meters to the homestay, proceeded to send us up a steep footpath, that was not passable, even with our light bikes. Additionally, Tài dropped his bike trying to turn it around, jamming his foot under it, and I had to drag it off of him. Luckily, he was wearing full gear and sturdy boots, so nothing happened. We managed to find a different route and made it safely to our homestay for the night. One of the Aussie riders wasn’t so lucky that day and came off at a high-speed off-road, hurting his ankle quite badly. He was picked up by the support car and brought safely to the accommodation.

Dương Công Chích Homestay

Day 13

Bắc Sơn to Hạ Long Bay

Tài and me spent our last day of the tour riding mostly main roads to Hạ Long Bay, accompanied by Nick, who hurt his ankle the day before. He insisted to ride with us and I have huge respect for his perseverance and endurance covering the whole distance in pain. We arrived quite early at the hotel, had lunch and the whole group headed off afterwards for a Hạ Long Bay ship cruise. The weather was windy and quite cold, February still is winter and off season in Vietnam’s north. The boat trip was ok and interesting, but probably better made in spring. The limestone caves we visited along the way still were very impressive. The female guide leading the trip was a business lady through and through, proceeding to try to sell us EVERYTHING she had as souvenirs on board: “Very good, very cheap!” We ended the trip by having a fancy seafood dinner with a lot of Happy Water. What an awesome adventure we had!

DeLaSea Hotel

Day 1

Hà Nội to Mai Châu

We set off quite early in the morning to leave humid Hà Nội as soon as possible. Nine riders from Australia, three guides and me, got on the bikes and joined the crazy traffic, only to leave the tarmac again soon. First challenge of the day was to pass through sandy sections and a dry river bed with deep cracks in the ground. The temperature was around 25 degrees with a high humidity and it did not take long for me to be completely drenched in my own sweat. The temperature difference of nearly 30 degrees, the exhaustion of the last weeks and not being used to go off-road anymore left me struggling and feeling dizzy. Luckily one of the guys had electrolytes to spare and I was able to cover the rest of the section. The nine riders from Australia were a group of friends and pretty synched in their riding, which left me being the sweeper of the group. Due to the fact, that riding off-road is illegal in Germany, my lack of experience became quite clear from early on. Chí and me decided that I should cover the rest of the distance to the homestay on-road, which did not really bother me. On the way I lost my gear shifting pedal (no idea how and where that happened!), but knowing that a motorcycle garage is around every corner in Vietnam, it was fixed in 30 minutes (Thanks to guide Tài at this point who accompanied me!). I enjoyed riding along the route in my own pace, stopping whenever needed and just loved seeing small villages and the change of surroundings as I approached our first homestay in Mai Châu a few hours later. Mrs. Chung’s homestay was lovely, the rooms and facilities clean and the food excellent. The group even got a dancing show after dinner and was asked to join in. Exhausted and after having some more chats and beers, we happily fell into a deep slumber. Perfect ending to a first riding day.

Mrs Chung Homestay

Day 2

Mai Châu to Phù Yên

After a fantastic breakfast in Mrs. Chungs homestay, I set off on my own to let the group ride their pace and tackling heavier off-road sections. Chí provided me with all the route info, lunch spot of the day and the next accommodation. The boys were still busy with last fixes to the bikes when I left. The ride began in thick fog and moist air, but it was the perfect temperature to ride. My personal challenge of the day was to follow satellite pictures on Google Maps to stay on route, while the boys were visiting the dinosaur backbone or Tà Xùa. After a while the fog lifted and I had an amazing sunny riding day, interrupted by going slalom around cows, chickens and dogs. I got first to the hotel and was promptly accompanied by two adorable Vietnamese kids, which gave me the opportunity to test out my basic Vietnamese. With a little help from Google Translate, we managed to have at least a little conversation, while they showed off their skills riding their bicycles. Too cute! When the group arrived, we headed for dinner and had poppy infused rice wine (Happy Water) with it. Needless to say, we all slept very well that night.

Hai Anh Hotel

Day 3

Phù Yên to Yên Bái

We woke up to cold weather, wind and rain and the Aussies were struggling with the temperature, not really keen to set off. In the mountain sections that they were about to ride, it probably would be even worse and colder. I wasn’t really looking forward to ride in heavy winds and pouring rain, too, especially riding the heaviest bike of the group, a Honda CBX500 with knobby tires, that day. Due to one of the light bikes breaking down on the first riding day, Chí had to replace it by riding the CBX500 of his fleet. Even though he is one of the most skilled riders I have ever encountered, it is too heavy and bulky for the advanced off-road sections they were about to take that day. So, I found myself riding the big bike in high winds and cold, strong rain, feeling the tires sliding in every corner. It took me forever to reach the homestay, but it still was a good day, because I definitely levelled up my skills. I still managed to reach the Homestay before the boys and was able to warm up by the fire, accompanied by the lovely homestay owner I knew from my previous Vietnam Trip. She welcomed me earlier with the words “Ăn cơm chưa?” (Have you eaten yet?) and quickly provided me with a light snack before the boys came by. For the rest of the night, we gathered around the fire and tried to dry off our gear as much as possible. It got quite chilly that evening, so we were thankful for a few Happy Waters and the provided blankets. I love this place so much, highly recommended!

MuongLo Farmstay

Day 4

Yên Bái to Sa Pa

After a cold night in Yên Bái, we tried to peel ourselves into our moist gear. Everything smelled like fire and barbeque, but at least we were not so soaked anymore. I took the CBX, the boys got on their bikes and we set off to meet again at the Bamboo Water Wheels. What a spectacular location! Numerous huge handmade bamboo wheels located along the river, moving with the flow, transporting the water off for people to use. The knacking noises of the wooden wheels paired with the sound of the river made this place a very special experience. And the ride over the dodgy hanging bridge to get there, just made this visit even more exiting. On the following ride approaching Sa Pa and a higher altitude, I could feel the cold air increasing and I literally just waited for my mobile phone to shut down. Arriving at Sa Pa, my weather app was forecasting 2 degrees for the upcoming night. My original plan, to visit one of Vietnam’s highest mountains (Fansipan, with a height of 3.143 m) the next day was quickly off the table, since I did not have enough layers to keep warm in -5 degrees on the top. The whole group was sick from the last days riding in the wet and cold, so we decide to have a rest day the upcoming day. Luckily the aircons in the hotel had a heating function.

Sa Pa House Hotel

Day 5

Rest day and day of the Lunar New Year celebrations (Tết)

The group spend the day sleeping in, taking it slow, getting laundry done and trying to keep warm and cosy as much as possible. It really was cold that day and I was happy having a break from riding.

Around midday, I got an invitation to join Chí for a visit at a friends’ house for an early Tết lunch. Long and his family were very welcoming and the food was tasty and authentic. A lot of good talks and happy water were shared and we got back to the hotel a little tipsy and ready for another nap. Later in the night we would be back to Longs’ house, to celebrate the New Year together. A few boys joined in for the spectacle and helped Long to carry out wood to light a fire on the street. Celebrating the new year Vietnamese style. And while we were at it, Long proceeded to bring a frying pan and porkchops, which were placed over the said fire to roast. Suddenly a police car was approaching and we all somehow expected them to stop because of the fire. But Long explained, that they do not mind and that they just were looking for people lighting “dangerous” Chinese firework instead of the “safe” Vietnamese ones. And indeed, the policemen were just passing us, laughing when we cheered with Happy Water, wishing them a Happy New Year. Midnight approached and the group got ready to light the provided firework.

Chúc mừng năm mới 2025! Welcome to the new year of the snake!

Day 6

Sa Pa to Sa Pa village

The ride of day 6 was short, but we all were thankful not having to cover a long distance while feeling cold and defeated. As soon as we arrived at the lovely homestay, we gathered around the fire that was lit in a big metal bowl in the middle of the living room. The owner was lovely and proceeded to provide us with warm tea and fabulous, home-cooked food. After consuming a few homemade plum wines with our dinner, it was time to have the mandatory karaoke session. Still, we had an early night due to having colds and we were happy to find heating blankets in our beds.

Tan Van View Homestay

Part 2 coming soon!

Fast forward – it’s the 19th of January 2025 and I am standing in an empty apartment. Everything is cancelled, sold, gifted away, tidied out or put in storage. My dear friend Sabrina came over to help me with the last organizational deeds and to give me moral support. For the last weeks there had been a constant back and forth in my head between “Yayy, it is happening!” and “What am I doing here?”. I was exhausted, mentally and physically and I more than thankful for not having to tackle the last few meters on my own. All the organization and preparation of the last twelve month were coming to an end.

One last walk through the beloved apartment I called home for the last three years, one last check if I hadn’t forgotten anything and then it was time to leave the keys on the counter and close the door for good. One last time running down the stairs from the fourth floor. It really was happening.

Sabrina offered to escort me to the airport the next day and we’d be spending my last night in Germany in a hotel, order Pizza, watch Trash TV, take it slow and chill, before my last hours in Germany had begun.

The next day we headed to the airport and I kind of felt being on autopilot, my head hadn’t realized yet that I was really leaving. One last hug and off I went through security check.

The flight went smoothly with a layover in Bangkok, which turned out to be so tight, that I had to run to my next gate to catch my flight to Hà Nội. But it was worth it and two hours later I found myself standing in the immigration area at Nội Bài airport. Even though I had applied for a 90-day Visa in advance, I expected the process to take longer than usual, because the Lunar New Year (Tết) was close. After 2.5 hours I finally made it and was picked up by a taxi I had booked a few days prior to bring me to my hostel.

The first days in Hà Nội I mostly spent sleeping due to the recent lack of sleep and eating all my favorite foods. I sat in Cafés for hours watching the hustle and bustle of the Old Quarter. In a few days I would head off north with a group of motorcycle riders to experience my first Tết celebrations close up. So exciting!

Tết (or Tết Nguyên Đán) is the most important holiday in Vietnam that marks the first day of a new year after the Lunisolar Calendar. The four-day celebration sometimes are extended to two or three weeks and mostly are spent with family, relatives and friends.

A lot of businesses and shops close down in that time, which can make it a bit more challenging to travel. But knowing that I’d join an organized tour over 13 days with Chí (Chi’s Wheels Motorcycle Tour) and a group of Aussie riders, would make things definitely easier. On the 24th of January we’ll set off.

But what if they look to good not to give it a shot? 

I was on my way back from Hà Nội in December 2023 and had a boring layover in Doha. I was just about to enjoy my overpriced beer when a gentleman in his late 50s approached me: “Excuse me Miss, I don’t mean to interrupt. But I saw you carrying a helmet and wearing dusty boots. You surely are on your way home from a motorcycle trip!? Just asking because I ride as well!”. I didn’t mind a bit of company at all, so I offered the free seat to him, and we continued to chat for quite a bit about motorcycles, Vietnam, and life. The gentleman, who lives in Vietnam permanently, was on his way home to Italy for family visits. He probably wasn’t aware of what he started when he said out of the blue: “You know Livi, this might be a long shot, but I can hear how much you love Vietnam, and your English is excellent…have you ever thought of going to Vietnam for a longer time, working as an English teacher?” I must’ve looked funny because he started laughing. “Listen”, he went on, “we still have a little time left until our plane departs, how about I put you on a phone with a friend of mine. He moved to Vietnam years ago and surely can give you an idea how it is to work in Vietnam. Me, on 2 hours of sleep and an 18$ beer in, happily agreed. So, for the next thirty minutes I proceeded to talk to another stranger I just “met” about my possible future career in Vietnam. Soon the flight was about to depart, and we exchanged contact data to talk again a few days later. Sadly, this never happened. The gentleman turned out to be a little odd and I had to block shortly after due to sending weird messages in high numbers. Oh well…

Even though the contact didn’t work out, the seed of an idea was planted. I could not shake it off. As soon as the jetlag had faded, I dared to have a closer look on the idea and soon realized: This could actually work out. My work contract would be running out in roughly a year, I had no kids, pets or things that kept me in place and enough time to safe up some more money. So why not? My only doubt was, of course money shortage and if this was another decision I just simply made from boredom? Did I really want to leave the hamster wheel and sell everything that I own to go for an unknown future at 40? 

When I moved to my apartment three years ago, I already had a gut feeling this would not be forever. I did not buy much stuff that was new, never did a fancy interior and put function before style. For me, a home does not need to be fancy looking but must give you a safe and warm fuzzy feeling. My first thought of letting someone else live in my rented flat as an intermediate tenant was dismissed pretty fast, since I did not know on how long I wanted to travel. Additionally, I didn’t want something back home, that restricted me from possibly extending my trip. So, I decided to stick to Plan B, selling everything and putting remaining belongings into storage. Tabula Rasa!

I wanted to be as flexible as possible when traveling, so I was looking into options on how to save or earn money along the way if finances might get tight. The Italian gentleman from the airport already suggested me to work as an English teacher, but I had zero teaching education or experience. So, I began looking into requirements for teaching abroad and talked to a few people who are teaching in Asia. I was suggested a company called TEFL, which are self-moderated online courses to gain the basics and methods for teaching English. I chose their 120-hr option, which is a package of five courses (grammar, methodology, video observation, teaching large classes and telephone teaching) and cost roughly 200$. The courses are a mix of videos, lecture, quizzes and assignments and give a great basic introduction of teaching-methods and -content. Within three month I had my TEFL certificate.

Another idea I could not shake off was, that I wanted to be able to communicate better with the Vietnamese people. Most of them speak (a little) English, but in some situations in the past, I had wished to understand and speak more. I knew a few phrases and words, but actually, I had no idea what I was doing. Coming from Rammstein-country which language sounds quite hard, it seemed nearly impossible to me to be able to learn a phonetic language. I tried a few apps, but nothing really stuck. Until a day in May 2024, when I saw a reel of a Vietnamese/Canadian content creator on Instagram, in which she introduced an app, that offered one-to-one language classes for a fair price (italki). You can book three test lessons, to find the most suitable teacher for your needs. In my case, it only took me one. I was super lucky to meet Chris (Nguyên), in his twenties, from Hồ Chí Minh City in my first test lesson and we instantly got along great. From the first moment it felt more like talking to a friend, than a teacher.  From June 2024 to January 2025 on, we had been seeing each other virtually twice a week and I could not have enjoyed it more, learning a new language. Chris is highly motivated, patient, funny and one of the warmest and loveliest people I have ever met. For someone like me, who didn’t have the best learning experiences in school, it was very healing to have him as my teacher. Cám ơn em, yêu quá. I hope we will be able to meet in person once I am over.

A few months later and I am sitting in my cancelled apartment with 70 days to go. My last day of work will be close to Christmas. After that, I took all my saved vacation days from 2024 and will not be working until I leave the country. I really did it.