Day 1
Hà Nội to Mai Châu
We set off quite early in the morning to leave humid Hà Nội as soon as possible. Nine riders from Australia, three guides and me, got on the bikes and joined the crazy traffic, only to leave the tarmac again soon. First challenge of the day was to pass through sandy sections and a dry river bed with deep cracks in the ground. The temperature was around 25 degrees with a high humidity and it did not take long for me to be completely drenched in my own sweat. The temperature difference of nearly 30 degrees, the exhaustion of the last weeks and not being used to go off-road anymore left me struggling and feeling dizzy. Luckily one of the guys had electrolytes to spare and I was able to cover the rest of the section. The nine riders from Australia were a group of friends and pretty synched in their riding, which left me being the sweeper of the group. Due to the fact, that riding off-road is illegal in Germany, my lack of experience became quite clear from early on. Chí and me decided that I should cover the rest of the distance to the homestay on-road, which did not really bother me. On the way I lost my gear shifting pedal (no idea how and where that happened!), but knowing that a motorcycle garage is around every corner in Vietnam, it was fixed in 30 minutes (Thanks to guide Tài at this point who accompanied me!). I enjoyed riding along the route in my own pace, stopping whenever needed and just loved seeing small villages and the change of surroundings as I approached our first homestay in Mai Châu a few hours later. Mrs. Chung’s homestay was lovely, the rooms and facilities clean and the food excellent. The group even got a dancing show after dinner and was asked to join in. Exhausted and after having some more chats and beers, we happily fell into a deep slumber. Perfect ending to a first riding day.
Day 2
Mai Châu to Phù Yên
After a fantastic breakfast in Mrs. Chungs homestay, I set off on my own to let the group ride their pace and tackling heavier off-road sections. Chí provided me with all the route info, lunch spot of the day and the next accommodation. The boys were still busy with last fixes to the bikes when I left. The ride began in thick fog and moist air, but it was the perfect temperature to ride. My personal challenge of the day was to follow satellite pictures on Google Maps to stay on route, while the boys were visiting the dinosaur backbone or Tà Xùa. After a while the fog lifted and I had an amazing sunny riding day, interrupted by going slalom around cows, chickens and dogs. I got first to the hotel and was promptly accompanied by two adorable Vietnamese kids, which gave me the opportunity to test out my basic Vietnamese. With a little help from Google Translate, we managed to have at least a little conversation, while they showed off their skills riding their bicycles. Too cute! When the group arrived, we headed for dinner and had poppy infused rice wine (Happy Water) with it. Needless to say, we all slept very well that night.
Day 3
Phù Yên to Yên Bái
We woke up to cold weather, wind and rain and the Aussies were struggling with the temperature, not really keen to set off. In the mountain sections that they were about to ride, it probably would be even worse and colder. I wasn’t really looking forward to ride in heavy winds and pouring rain, too, especially riding the heaviest bike of the group, a Honda CBX500 with knobby tires, that day. Due to one of the light bikes breaking down on the first riding day, Chí had to replace it by riding the CBX500 of his fleet. Even though he is one of the most skilled riders I have ever encountered, it is too heavy and bulky for the advanced off-road sections they were about to take that day. So, I found myself riding the big bike in high winds and cold, strong rain, feeling the tires sliding in every corner. It took me forever to reach the homestay, but it still was a good day, because I definitely levelled up my skills. I still managed to reach the Homestay before the boys and was able to warm up by the fire, accompanied by the lovely homestay owner I knew from my previous Vietnam Trip. She welcomed me earlier with the words “Ăn cơm chưa?” (Have you eaten yet?) and quickly provided me with a light snack before the boys came by. For the rest of the night, we gathered around the fire and tried to dry off our gear as much as possible. It got quite chilly that evening, so we were thankful for a few Happy Waters and the provided blankets. I love this place so much, highly recommended!
Day 4
Yên Bái to Sa Pa
After a cold night in Yên Bái, we tried to peel ourselves into our moist gear. Everything smelled like fire and barbeque, but at least we were not so soaked anymore. I took the CBX, the boys got on their bikes and we set off to meet again at the Bamboo Water Wheels. What a spectacular location! Numerous huge handmade bamboo wheels located along the river, moving with the flow, transporting the water off for people to use. The knacking noises of the wooden wheels paired with the sound of the river made this place a very special experience. And the ride over the dodgy hanging bridge to get there, just made this visit even more exiting. On the following ride approaching Sa Pa and a higher altitude, I could feel the cold air increasing and I literally just waited for my mobile phone to shut down. Arriving at Sa Pa, my weather app was forecasting 2 degrees for the upcoming night. My original plan, to visit one of Vietnam’s highest mountains (Fansipan, with a height of 3.143 m) the next day was quickly off the table, since I did not have enough layers to keep warm in -5 degrees on the top. The whole group was sick from the last days riding in the wet and cold, so we decide to have a rest day the upcoming day. Luckily the aircons in the hotel had a heating function.
Day 5
Rest day and day of the Lunar New Year celebrations (Tết)
The group spend the day sleeping in, taking it slow, getting laundry done and trying to keep warm and cosy as much as possible. It really was cold that day and I was happy having a break from riding.
Around midday, I got an invitation to join Chí for a visit at a friends’ house for an early Tết lunch. Long and his family were very welcoming and the food was tasty and authentic. A lot of good talks and happy water were shared and we got back to the hotel a little tipsy and ready for another nap. Later in the night we would be back to Longs’ house, to celebrate the New Year together. A few boys joined in for the spectacle and helped Long to carry out wood to light a fire on the street. Celebrating the new year Vietnamese style. And while we were at it, Long proceeded to bring a frying pan and porkchops, which were placed over the said fire to roast. Suddenly a police car was approaching and we all somehow expected them to stop because of the fire. But Long explained, that they do not mind and that they just were looking for people lighting “dangerous” Chinese firework instead of the “safe” Vietnamese ones. And indeed, the policemen were just passing us, laughing when we cheered with Happy Water, wishing them a Happy New Year. Midnight approached and the group got ready to light the provided firework.
Chúc mừng năm mới 2025! Welcome to the new year of the snake!
Day 6
Sa Pa to Sa Pa village
The ride of day 6 was short, but we all were thankful not having to cover a long distance while feeling cold and defeated. As soon as we arrived at the lovely homestay, we gathered around the fire that was lit in a big metal bowl in the middle of the living room. The owner was lovely and proceeded to provide us with warm tea and fabulous, home-cooked food. After consuming a few homemade plum wines with our dinner, it was time to have the mandatory karaoke session. Still, we had an early night due to having colds and we were happy to find heating blankets in our beds.
Part 2 coming soon!
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